While Las Vegas isn’t typically the first place that comes to mind when thinking about rock climbing, this is exactly where Alex Honnold, the most well known climber of our generation has chosen to put roots down, a testament to Vegas’s status as a world class climbing destination.

Mount Wilson

As seen from the top of Black Orpheus 5.10a; Oak Creek Canyon

Red Rock NCA spans 195,000 acres and features a 13-mile-long escarpment of Aztec Sandstone, with walls soaring up to 3,000 feet high. This iconic desert playground is home to a maze of peaks, ridges, and 10 major canyons that drain east to west, offering climbing opportunities for every style and level.

The Aztec Sandstone here is famous for two things:

It’s generally more solid than other sandstone climbing areas of the West.
It’s coated in desert varnish, a dark, weathered patina that creates countless edges and holds, often giving one the option to use cracks or face holds.

*Loving the desert varnish edges on Slot Machine; Mescalito formation*

With over 2,300 routes in the guidebook, Red Rock can feel overwhelming at first. Here are a few of my favorite moderates to get you started:

Tunnel Vision (5.7): My first Red Rock climb, this route has a special place in my heart. It has 6 pitches of a variety of climbing, with a heavy emphasis on chimney climbing. The defining feature however, comes at pitch 5, where you climb through a left leaning tunnel through the rock. The combination of caving and rock climbing make for a very memorable pitch.

Emerging from the Tunnel

Tunnel Vision, Pitch 5

Birdland (5.7+): Technically 6 pitches, but most people rappel after the 5th pitch since the quality of the rock deteriorates. Relatively steep climbing but highly featured ie, lots of holds! The 5th pitch has an immaculate finger crack, which is somewhat unusual for a 5.7, and is generally considered the money pitch (the best one!).

Cat in the Cat 5.7: You guessed it, another uber classic 6 pitch outing. This route climbs on a feature called Mescalito, which is a 1000’ pyramid that splits Pine creek canyon into it’s north and south forks. Most parties rappel after the 6th pitch, but you can continue to the summit of Mescalito by climbing another 500’ on mostly 4th and low 5th class climbing making for great adventure. Abundant belay ledges make this a great introductory route if getting used to exposure. (Exposure to heights, ie. Feeling like you’re high off the ground)
Crimson Chrysalis 5.8+: This route climbs 9 pitches up a feature called the Cloud Tower. Where Cat in the Hat has many ledges, Crimson Chrysalis is much the opposite, making it a great route for seeking out exposure! Fantastic climbing with many varnished edges.

Wide chimney climbing

La Cierta Edad 5.10c; Icebox Canyon

Bonus:

Epinephrine (5.9+): Truly the quintessential route of Red Rocks, and for good reason in my humble opinion. With 12 guidebook pitches followed by another 700’ of low 5th class climbing and a tricky descent, this is a long and serious outing. The climbing however, is super memorable. The first 6th pitches follow a chimney system. Unlike many other Red Rocks climbs, the rock is quite smooth and featureless, testing ones chimney climbing techniques. The following 6th pitch are more typical Red Rock climbing, but with serious exposure above Black Velvet Canyon. A fantastic adventure.

Maybe you’ve heard of these climbs before? These are the area classics, and they’re classic for a reason.

Why climb with a guide?

Climbing with a guide can optimize your climbing experience in many ways.

I won’t get lost on the approach (most the time…): The approaches to climbs at Red Rocks are notoriously tricky, and having a guide can save a lot of time and frustration on the approach
I can navigate crowds like a ninja: These moderate classics can be notoriously crowded. A guide has several techniques to navigate this including timing strategy, tactful passing of other parties, and will be prepared with several contingency plans.
I will maximize safety: There’s no way around it, climbing and particularly traditional climbing, is dangerous. As an IFMGA certified guide I have been rigorously examined both on my risk management and on what we call “client care”, which means making each climb the best experience possible for our guests.
I will maximize fun: I will pick a route that is appropriate for your ability. Getting out of your comfort zone is part of the experience, but when people get pushed too far out of their comfort zone, they may get pushed past the “growth zone” and into a fight or flight experience. I seek to expand my guests comfort zone in incremental steps. If we’re not having fun ,were doing it wrong.
I can help you develop your own skills: Even if you don’t climb with a guide often, hiring a guide for a day can speed up you’re own development as a climber. See the systems that I use, and get coached on movement, technical systems, application of systems, decision making and more.

Lets, go climbing! Get in touch to book a climb today! Availability for dates in October.

Book a climb in Red Rocks this Fall!